WHAT: Visiting the Game of Thrones-like fortress of Veliko Tarnovo and the cobblestone streets of the town itself WHERE: Veliko Tarnovo is located in the middle of Bulgaria, some 220 km from capital Sofia. HOW LONG: For the town you need a day at least (including half a day for the fortress), but you could actually stay much longer in here if you're in the mood. I stayed there myself for some four days. HOW MUCH: Admission 6 лъв /lev (approximately $ 3,80 USD) for admission to the fortress
I had already travelled for weeks around the Balkan and beyond, when I made a stop at Veliko Tarnovo. I didn’t had a clue of what the city would be like and tired as I was I didn’t really care either. I arrived late at night and walked the cobble stone streets straight to my homestay. I Just needed to take a long break. To my surprise the next morning, I couldn’t have picked a better town for that.
Veliko Tarnovo feels very comforting and familiar. Even as a foreigner I had the feeling I could completely blend into the relaxed vibe of the locals. I don’t know what it was. Maybe they’re born with it, maybe it’s the Bulgarian air.
If you’re into either Lord of the Rings or Game of Thrones, Veliko Tarnovo might be an ideal stop for you too. The town’s rather epic and would fit right into one of those movies/series; built on steep hills and surrounded by great fortresses (as a stronghold against enemies) along the Yantra river. Some houses are even constructed interestingly into the rocks.
The main street in town you want to visit is the Samovodska Charshia. It starts right in the center and leads all the way to the Tsarevets fortress (more about this later). This area is full of funny, little crafty shops and petit cafes.
Take it easy, stroll the street and see how ancient crafts are being practiced nowadays, such as weaving, copper work, woodwork and traditional sweet making. I know it’s really meant for the tourists, but I thought it was lovely nonetheless. The people will love to explain you about their work.
Apart from that, if there’s only one thing you can do in town; go to the Tsarevets fortress, located on Tsarevets Hill at the end of the crafty street. It’s impossible to miss by the way; as it dominates the skyline of the town.
A mini hike will lead you to the area that has been a bulwark in here for ages, because of its strategic location. Apparently the Thracians and Romans already used the hill as a defensive position. If you look down during the hike, you’ll understand why – so steep!
Later the Byzantines built the first significant fort over here, one that was rebuilt by the Slavs and Bulgars between the 8th and 10th century. Next the fortress was the stronghold of Bulgarian kings for over 200 years, housing the royal and the patriarchal palaces and some 18 churches, until was captured and demolished by the Ottomans at the end of the 14th century. Phfew; quite a lot of history to digest at one spot right?!
So as you might imagine, although much of the fortress is in ruins, with all of this history in mind it really feels like you’re walking on sacred Bulgarian ground. And to Bulgarians you pretty much are. Roman, eastern and western building cultures have all blended into these stones. Even the Soviet influence can be felt, as the place has been renovated partially in the commi days.
Unfortunately your imagination will be your best guide, as there are no signs written in English. Unless you know Russian, Bulgarian or German you better take a guide book with you, or ask one of the guides outside of the fortress to enrich your knowledge. They will know the stories of the Bulgarian boyars for sure.
Close your day off with the audiovisual show that lights the medieval skyline a couple of times a week with lasers, dramatic music and church bells. Ask your hotel manager, he or she’ll know what date you can expect it to be held. The show is meant to tell stories of key moments of the history of Bulgaria.
You can see it for free (it’s in the sky after all) and the best spot to observe it is from Tsar Ivan Asen II Square, next to the entrance of Tsarevets. It’s even better enjoyed with a wine on the terrace, but I don’t need to tell you that. Did you know that Bulgaria is the world’s fifth-largest exporter of wine? Quite something right? If you’re more into a brew you just say: “ohste bira molya” – one more beer please!
