If I had to describe Valparaíso in two words I’d say: murals and quiltros (street dogs). The dogs are so loyal that if you give food to them they’ll basically follow you to your home country, as a local put it. And they are around everywhere, just like the graffitis and street art.
This colourful and charming port city – probably the most vibrant one of Chile – is only 1,5 hour away from Santiago by bus. Therefore it makes for a perfect weekend break or day trip. Especially if you have gotten a bit bored with the white-collared attitude of Santiago.
You wouldn’t say to today, but the port of the city was once known as the Jewel of the Pacific. Whole families emigrated to Valparaíso from Europe to try to make it here in the 19th century. The United States was in the full gold rush bloom and ships from Europe had to go all the way round the south of the continent to get there. Valparaíso was a popular resting hub in between.
But in the year 1914 there was a change to all of that: the opening of the Panama Canal. Suddenly the southern ports were useless and the city became like an old lady of grandeur. Decay was all around the corner.
It’s this melancholy that has inspired many artists over the decades. Plants have sprung between the former beautiful mansions, cats have multiplied and dogs roam the alleys. Chile’s most famous write Pablo Neruda called Valparaíso once ‘a wonderful mess’. And that is still is.
A quick look at the map below might be clarifying: it’s a bit of a difficulty in here to navigate, especially if you’re used to city blocks. The historical center has been built on 45 steep hills that look out on the Pacific Ocean. It’s rather easy to get lost in the maze of alleys and narrow streets.
But don’t worry, there’s a lot to explore in here: bohemian cafes, the 14 ancient and legendary funiculars that creak their way up on the steep hillsides, artesanal alfajores vendors, stands with hand-knitted toys, cute little art galleries, ceramic shops, a mirador with views over the bay and nearby Viña del Mar. Cerro Concepción and Cerro Alegre are the liveliest parts of the city – chock-full of painters and poets.
Every bend might bring a new surprise, so getting lost isn’t the worst in here. See for yourself whatever else you may encounter in here!
Here’s where to find that colourful town! ↓
