Montevideo is a peculiar place. When walking around a capital one would automatically expect lots of noise, hasty people and much traffic. But nothing of all of that in the largest city of Uruguay. While strolling its old center, it sometimes even felt as if no-one is really around. ‘Is anybody living here?!’ you might want to shout from time to time.
How is this possible? Honestly, after a day in the heart of Uruguay, I still don’t know. I mean, I realize they do things differently in here. Uruguay is the most progressive country in Latin-America for example, by far. The temperament of the people too is much more tranquil, compared to the feisty nature of their neighbouring Argentinians or Brazilians. Perhaps the locals just enjoy their peace, no matter what time of the day it is.
Because of these deserted streets it can be difficult to find your way in the capital. You have to make a bit of an effort to see what’s hidden behind those silent facades. But for sure you can have a fun day in Montevideo. Check out this list to get you started and see where the locals are hiding out!
Plaza Independencia
Start your day at Montevideo’s largest downtown plaza. Plaza Independencia separates the old city from nowadays downtown Montevideo, with the Puerta de la Ciudadela (the old gateway to the citadel) on one side and the beginning of 18 de Julio avenue on the other.
The buildings around the square are rather eclectic, so you might need a minute to soak it all up. Let’s start in the middle of the square, where the Uruguayan independence hero José Artigas is commemorated with his own mausoleum. Guards honour his remains 24-hours a day.
On the eastern side of the square you’ll see the 26-story Palacio Salvo. Its architecture is divided in three sections – based on Dante’s Inferno – and it was the continent’s tallest building when it opened in 1927.
Next doors doric facade belongs to the 19th-century Palacio Estévez, the former presidential palace until the ’70s. Nowadays turned into museum about the government. On the western side of the palace you can find the current presidential offices.
If you want to walk around with a guide, go to the Puerta de la Ciudadela at 11 am, Free Walking Tour has an excellent, daily tour that will introduce you to both Uruguay and the old town of Montevideo!
Teatro Solis
The biggest theater of Montevideo isn’t just open for plays, operas and the like – you can also visit it with a behind the scenes tour! For a small fee your guide will tell you in 30 to 40 minutes all about the history, architecture, technical aspects and quirky anecdotes of the building.
The theater will also make for a decent stop if you’re in dire need of coffee and cake. And don’t forget to check-out the lovely theater shop either!
Librería Más Puro Verso
If you like gorgeous facades and interiors, you’ll be instantly drawn to the book shop Más Puro Verso as you walk from the Plaza Independencia. It’s situated in a car free street that connect the main square to the rest of the old town.
The bookshop could be listed on one of those ‘most beautiful bookshops in the world’ list. The building is art-deco and the staircase leads to gorgeous stained glass windows. The open steel elevator is the oldest one in Montevideo. And it’s not all about the looks, thousands of Spanish books can be found in between.
We came in ourselves for the (over-priced) coffee on a very cold morning, and though the service and the quality of the little cafe on the first floor was lacking, we didn’t mind staying for the beautiful indoor views.
Plaza Matriz
Have a rest at this leafy square in between your stops. Contrary to Plaza Independencia this plaza wants to comfort rather than intimidate you.
The couple of ever-present crafts vendors give the square an artsy feeling and during the weekend you can find a flea market in here too. Pay special attention to the enormous fountain in the middle, it’s some 150 years old. The fountain was once a major fresh water supply for the city and the engravings are full of Spanish grammar mistakes… find them!
Montevideo Metropolitan Cathedral
While you’re at Plaza Matriz, have a look at Montevideo’s cathedral, situated on the west side of the square.
Although you wouldn’t tell by its exterior, the building is fairly pretty on the inside. The cathedral is more than 200 years old, built in neoclassical style and the walls are adorned with high stained glass that have been produced by Uruguayan artists. Visiting is free of charge and once you leave the cathedral, make sure to look up – you’ll stare straight into the bell tower!
Cabildo de Montevideo| Museo Historico de la Ciudad
Another peek you could take once you’re at Plaza Matriz is at the historical city museum: the Cabildo de Montevideo. Located on the eastern side of the square, this beautiful building hosts a couple of exhibitions. Expect nothing much (to be honest, that goes for all of the museums in Montevideo), but the historical building itself it worth checking out.
At the time of my visit there was an exhibition regarding women throughout history in Uruguay and one about The Paraguayan War, or the War of the Triple Alliance – the deadliest and bloodiest inter-state war in Latin America’s history.
Mercado del Puerto
Don’t think you can only eat a good steak in Argentina. Meat has always been of importance in Uruguay and the Mercado del Puerto might be the ultimate place to enjoy an Uruguayan asado, a bbq. Grilling meat in here is more than just preparing a traditional dish, the asado represents something like the country’s whole identity. It’s almost like a ceremony to the people in here.
Although the name suggests otherwise, the primarily purpose of the Mercado del Puerto is serving lunch to its visitors. The Mercado has several restaurants and it might be difficult to choose between them. Just follow your nose as the prices are more or less the same. All of them are a bit expensive – especially compared to Argentina – but then again, everything is just a tad more pricey in here in general. Moreover, you come here to enjoy the atmosphere and if you pick a spot at the bar next to open-air asado, you will be amazed for sure.
Gulp all of your morcillas, chorizo and chivito’s down with a medio y medio (a glass half of champagne and of half dry white wine) and enjoy the spectacle of the asado, salud!
Casa de Juan Antonio Lavalleja
Another small museum located in a colonial building. Built around 1783 this the former residence of the Lavalleja family, is located on Calle Zabala 1469. The big courtyard upon entrance might be the masterpiece of the building, but while you’re there, check out the current exhibitions too. At the time of our visit (June 2018) there was an expo about gaucho items. Though small in size, it was still worth the visit. And admission was free!
Cafe Brasilero
Cafe Brasilero is the oldest cafe in the capital city and has long been the center of its bohemian culture, attracting artists, writers, and musicians over its 140-year history.
Though you wouldn’t say it, this tiny cafe (it measures less than 56 square meters) has played an important role in Montevideo’s cultural life. Founded in 1877, this cafe is the oldest of the capital and apart from old, this cafe has been famous for its many artsy visitors; writers, musicians and artists. The walls of the cafe, decorated with photographs, are attesting its famous past.
The cafe was closed for decades, but opened again in 2010 and nowadays again a favourite amongst locals and tourists for a coffee and conversation!
Casa de Antonio Montero / Museo Romántico
Once you set foot in Casa de Antonio Montero it’s like stepping into another century. And that’s the purpose of this charming building on Avenida 25 de Mayo.
Every room in here has been preserved or reset as if you were visiting your upperclass friend from Uruguay in the second half of the 19th century.
Don’t forget out the courtyard either!
Check out where you can find all of the spots in here:
