The most eastern island of the Hawaii archipelago is the benjamin of them all: Big Island. Though its correct name is ‘Hawaii’, people often refer to it as Big Island – just to avoid confusion. It’s nearly twice as big as all of the other island of the archipelago combined and has some spectacular and uncut beauty. Because of its sheer size, Big Island really is a one-of-a-kind island with a wide variety of climates and vegetation.
This guide will bring you the best of the island – all in 5 days! Whether you like underwater adventures or hiking in the snow, in here you can find it all. Click on the ‘Big Island in pictures’ link for more impressions of the island.
Day 1: Snorkeling the west + the best sunset ever
This day is about the hotspots of the western shores of the island. Go snorkeling, take a break at a poke shack and enjoy the best sunset possible on the island
10:00 am – Kealakekua Bay ( next to the Captain Cook Monument)
Kealakekua Bay is one of the most beautiful areas on the island, in my humble opinion. Also known as Captain Cook’s, this bay is surrounded by lava rock formations and some super blue water. Unfortunately there’s a catch, since the bay isn’t easy to reach. There’s no acces road, however it is possible to go their by foot through the bushes (or boat if you want to take a tour).
After this intense work-out it is lovely to jump right into the magical surroundings. The bay is like an aquarium where you can swim in. There were shallow areas for beginners and deep areas for people who wanted to explore the bigger creatures of the ocean. For more about the bay, click in here!
02:00 pm – Snorkeling at Honaunau bay
This bay is one for the pros. Just like with the previous one there are no facilities at the site, so take your gear, a beach chair to sit in on the lava rock (there’s no sand, you have to go straight from the lava out cropping into the sea) and food for the day. Ocean current is present and getting in and out can be a little tricky. Firstly watch where the other ones go in and out and secondly don’t be shy; there are always plenty of people who will reach out a hand if needed. Whatever you do, do not stick your fingers in the little holes in the rocks, they are full of those horrible, little, spiny sea urchins. Also, because of them, watch your feet!
So why bother.. you might think after this intro. Despite all of the cons the underwater life in here is really magnificent. Lots of tropical fish, (moray) eels and sea turtles are present and the coral is pretty decent too, particularly on the right side. But the best part is out in the bay, where the spinner dolphins are. These mammals can appear out of the blue and are often in the mood to put on quite a show for you. You can swim a bit along (of course always keeping a decent distance to the animals) for an incredible experience! Take a look below how ours was!
04:30 pm – Da Poke Shack – Kailua
Be in time for this small shack right on the shores of Kailua! No matter the hour, there’s always a queue, even in the morning (mmm yummie raw fishies on an empty stomach)! The shack is more of a quick serve spot for take away. There are some picnic tables outside, but in case they’re full you better walk to one of the nearby vistas on the sea.
The ahi is very fresh in here, and they serve a lot of different types of poke (unless you come too late in the afternoon in the weekend, like we did unfortunately). In case you’re done with the rice you can also opt for quinoa in here.
The staff is relaxed and helpful and makes sure you make the right choice by giving you samples of everything. Compared to other poke places I would say this spot is a little pricey for the amount of food, but you’ll sure get a great dish!
05:30 pm Sunset at Kahaluu Beach Park
After your poke meal, drive a little further southwards and end the day at one of the beaches; like Kahaluu Beach Park, Pahoehoe Beach Park or PuaPuaa Point. Just wait and see, if you’re lucky you might just enjoy one of the pinkiest sunsets ever. We did for sure!
Day 2: Volcanoes National Park
There are very few places in the world where you can get right up to an active volcano, but in Hawaii it’s possible – and it’s quite easy too! Big Island is the youngest island of the Hawaiian archipelago and is basically one big lava rock, that isn’t even that old in the grand scheme of things. Upon arrival you’ll be amazed by the black earth; even the airport is situated right upon a field of rock lava.
Up until this day the island is still ever-growing due to the constant lava flow, to be seen at the Hawaii Volcanoes National Park. But don’t just go there for the flowing lava, apart from that there’s a LOT to see when driving or walking around the park. Don’t know where to start? Here are 8 super fun spots you can all visit within one day!
Day 3: Snorkeling the south + lava flows
10:00 am – Eating macadamia’s at Mauna Loa
Go in the morning to the Mauna Loa Macadamia Nut Factory on your way to Hilo in case you want to pick up some macadamia nuts to snack on or to give as a present. If you want to, you can taste a lot of free samples too :). Macadamia ice cream is sold just outside the shop.
Apart from the excellent gift shop you can go on a self guided window tour of how macadamia nut processing works. Large windows with tv monitors and a way too enthusiastic presentator explain the visitors what they are looking at. It’s fun to see the workers walking around in this chaotic scenery. If you’re more into cookies – a small shack nearby the factory enables you as well to see the process of the cookie making through the big windows. Afterwards you drive back again through the scenic macadamia fields via Hilo towards Kapoho.
12:00 am – Snorkeling the tide pools at Kapoho
The tide pools are like mini-ecosystem boasting all kinds of coral and fish. The pools are great for snorkeling since they tend to be rather shallow with clear water (because very few waves!) and are therefore very family friendly too.
Big Island has a lot of these kind of spots, but this one in the southeast stars perhaps the most kinds of fish. Apart from that I really loved the relaxed vibe of the surrounding town and its friendly people. Even if you’re not into snorkeling, it’s a great place to visit and hang out. Just gaze at the surrounding houses and pick your ultimate vacation one :).
If you do hit the water make sure you’re exploring the upper right part too; the best of coral is to be found in this spot. Be a bit careful though around the edges, the waves can break hard over there.
04:00 pm – Hike to the lava flows
If you came for volcanoes to Hawaii then a visit to the lava viewing area is a real must. Unfortunately the lava flow isn’t easily accessible, so you have to work for it. All the more rewarding it will be.
There are two ways to get to the viewing area. The first one is via the Volcanoes National Park. Unfortunately, the hike at the end of the Chain of Craters Road towards the viewing area is quite tough and long – some 3 hours. The second option is to drive all the way around to Kalapana. From there it’s a 4 mile hike or ride to the cracks of lava. A much more decent deal.
If you come from Kapoho you have a beautiful ride ahead of you too, towards the entrance of the lava road. Read in here more about how the hike looks like and what you can expect at the viewing area.
Day 4: City shopping + A trip to the stars
10:00 am – Hilo
Don’t leave this island empty handed! The best way to collect your Hawaiian gifts for the home front is at the Farmer’s Market in Hilo. Locals come in here to sell their original and hand-made stuff, to both locals and tourists. From coconut bodylotion to jewellery with shells and spicy drinks. If you still haven’t found what you’re looking for; the shops nearby the market on the Kamehameha Avenue have quirky stuff too.
At the market the tropical fruits, goat cheese and macadamias don’t look so bad either. We found some HUGE avocados, see the picture. At several stalls you can even buy packaged lunches – think of pad thai or sandwiches – in case you’re in a hurry. If not go to the next activity:
11:30 am – Poke ‘n’ Sides – Hilo
This small shop is situated right on the Farmer’s Market in Hilo, very convenient for a break. The ahi is here again is fresh and buttery and comes in spicy flavours. On the days of the Farmer’s Market, get in here in time. Most of the poke might be sold out at lunchtime. Prices are reasonable for the amount you get and outsides there are ample spaces to enjoy a lovely lunch.
They sell the greatest stuffed pineapple in here as well, really refreshing as a dessert on a hot day!
02:00 pm – Mauna Kea
Though you probably wouldn’t have expected it, it’s even possible to see snow on this island! Mauna Kea is considered the tallest mountain on earth, though with a little cheating. Most of the mountain is underwater; when measured from its oceanic base, Mauna Kea is over 10,000 m / 33,000 ft tall and is the tallest mountain on Earth. Apart from that, the mountain of Mauna Kea is special since it’s considered to be ancestral and sacred to Hawaiian Culture.
Many touroperators offer expensive day trips to the mountain, but funny enough this top is very easily reached on your own. Save yourself some bucks and drive up to the summit yourself – you do need a 4WD however – especially if you have two or more in your vehicle making the savings over a guided tour quite substantial.
In here you can read more about the trip towards the top and the stargazing!
Day 5: Waterfalls + valleys
10:00 am – Grab a lunch and go to the many waterfalls
In case you still can’t get enough of the poke on this island you MUST go to Suisan Fish Market. By far my favourite poke place of the island. On the outside it doesn’t look interesting, and honestly the inside setting is more like a fish market. But hey, you come for the food and the plates in here are really really awesome.
Whatever is caught at sea comes straight in on the backside of the place (Suisan is situated at the harbour). They are many original choices to pick from (again you can taste some beforehand if you want) and portions are enormous. One big plate is enough for two persons, even if both are very hungry. Don’t forget to put the furikake on top of the rice!
Perhaps it doesn’t make sense to go here first thing in the morning, but the poke won’t any get better on the north side of the island, so take a meal and go and sit down during one of your next visit points. It’s a great deal cruising all the falls: Rainbow Falls, the Kahuna Falls, ‘Akaka Falls, Pe’epe’e Falls, Umauma Falls or Hi’ilawe Falls – if you’re not getting tired it’s possible to see them all in a couple of hours. If you come at the point of “you see one you see them all” – hey you spoiled brat! – move on to the next one!
01:00 pm – Waipio valley
After the falls it’s a slight detour going to the next spot: the Waipio Valley. But it’s totally worth it and you’ll understand why at first sight: huge cliffs sweeping down to the ocean, embracing a lush green and secluded valley. This wondrous spot is considered a sacred place and is one of Hawai’i’s last undeveloped valleys.
The atmosphere is special in here and you might feel the urge to explore the valley itself too. We did. The locals don’t really encourage you to go down by car, but if you feel confident enough, it doesn’t rain or hasn’t recently rained and have a car with 4WD, it is certainly possible, yet very very steep. While the road is now paved and only about ¾ mile long, the 25% average grade. Some websites say it’s up to 45% at some points.
I held my breathe at several points while descending. For some kind of reason going up was less scary, though it can be difficult not to pause in here due to all the hikers that are walking on the middle of the road – bastards. Just kidding. Anyway, I honestly dreamt about this road the same night, so believe me it does make an impression.
If you decide to walk downhill it’ll take you some 30 minutes to get to the beach. Going up obviously a lot more – a great way to test your condition. After the descent you can go right for the black sand beach or left for a gorgeous waterfall. The most beautiful of them all on the island in my humble opinion.
Although the sign says it isn’t possible to get to the waterfall, you can follow the river stream – as this is public land – right to it. But it won’t be easy and it’ll cost you a lot of time. I heard someone talking about an hour one way and a pretty difficult route. No matter what you do, the sceneries down the valley are amazing anyway.
04:00 pm – Coffee or more at Hawi
From Waipio valley it’s a beautiful ride through the hills and grasslands of the northern edge of the island to Hawi. This most northern community is small and though it looks like a one-horse town. Yet, funny enough there are actually quite some boutique shops to explore on the main street, the Akoni Pule Hwy. You really wonder how the owners survive in this remote place.
If you love cute cafes with chill vibes then you must stop at Kohala Coffee Mill. They sells the best ice cream and other kinds of comfort food at this quaint shop!
06:00 pm – Sunset at Makalawena beach
If you’d like to close your day romantically, drive down to the Makalawena Beach. This secluded, beautiful strip of sand and lava is nearby the airport and is a favourite amongst the locals. If you have a 4WD, the route will be a possible to drive for you, though very slowly due to the amount of enormous potholes and uneven rocks.
You can’t really swim well on this side but the area just really has something and it’s well worth the trek from the highway to get here. Other great place for golden hour north of the airport that are easier to reach are Mahukona Beach Park, Lapakahi State Historical Park, Kapa’a Beach and Anaeho’omalu Beach. Whatever spot you go, take a picnic with you, say goodbye to those cheeky mongoose and appreciate your last moments on the island in style.
