Here comes the article of an expert as I’ve already crossed the Costa Rican – Panamanian border in Sixaola thirteen times (as far as my memory can count!). At least five times back and worth for visiting Bocas del Toro, once for Panama City and once for Boquete (one-way).
Note that the border process at the time of your visit may be different again. In the three years that I have crossed the border I noticed it often had changed. This is the recording of my last border crossing as of January 2019 – starting in Costa Rica.
Step one: the Costa Rica exit tax
Once the bus or taxi will drop you off at the last point of the road before the ‘border bridge’, you have to walk to this little joint. ↓ It looks more like a ramshackle shop (in fact it is one), but this really is the place to be.
The shop is on the left side from the main street facing Panama, but there are so many locals pointing it out to you (and asking for you nationality “Miss miss, where u from”), that you can’t miss it anyway.
I once tried not to pay this tax (just to see how that would work out), but yes you really have to soak it up as they check if the got the paper they give you upon after you’ve paid the tax.
The tax is 4200 Costa Rican Colones (or $7,- USD according to my ticket) and you can pay both in USD and in Colones. If I recall correctly you can also pay with credit card, but don’t hold me accountable if that’s not the case or when the power is out (yes that happens from time to time in Costa Rica).
Also, you can leave your car next to this office at the secured parking lot for $10,- USD a day, if you’re planning on going back to Costa Rica. ↓
Step two: the stamp
Next: stand in line at this office. ↓ Usually you have to fill out a little (‘airplane-like’) form in here, but last time I went (January 2019) there suddenly was no need for that. I think it had to do with zika or something, or at least that is my wild assumption.
They usually ask you very few questions, unless you have a sick amount of stamps in your passport and they may have troubles figuring out your lifestyle.
Step three: passing the border
Next you walk out of the immigration office and you simply walk the bridge that spans the Sixaola river. It’s pretty. It’s simple. Stray dogs cross it. Bicycles cross it. Now you cross it.
The old bridge next to it used to be the first bridge. I think I crossed it the first time I went to Bocas del Toro. It’s a wicked old beaut.
Step four: the Panama entry tax
This may be the most confusing part of the journey.
You think you’ll just walk through this gate ↑, but the guys next to this checkpoint will probably – passive aggressively – lead you to another exit (that’s on the right as seen from the bridge) side of this building.
Most of the times you are forced to pay an entree tax. This is not checked anywhere by an official and I have the feeling the folks of Sixaola just invented this tax to receive a part of the pie.
Twice I managed to walk out of there without people forcing me to walk back to pay this ‘tax’. Once the little office was closed. The rest of the times I payed. The tax is something like $4,- USD and again you can pay either in Colones or USD. Can’t recall a credit card system over here.
So it all depends on how smoothly you’re able to walk pass it (or not)…
Step five: the Panama stamp
The Panamanian border will make your entry to the country harder than the one in Costa Rica does.
Be prepared to show your exit ticket (whether by boat or plane) as they WILL ask you for this. A print screen and email on my phone seemed sufficient throughout the years. Fingerprints and photos are requested, questions about where you’ll go and stay are asked and harsh looks are given.
Step six: getting the hell out of there
This guy in the red shirt is waiting for you. ↓
Literally EVERY time I came back from the border this guy was there. And he remembered me as well (or this was just some great selling stunt which I fell for). I always went along his minivan to Almirante. He never drives himself, but is the ‘managing minivan director’ of the area.
The first time he told me the ride was $15,- USD, but this is nonsense, don’t pay more than $10,-. If you’re with more than two, take a taxi. Or ask fellow travellers to join you with a taxi.
Unfortunately the minivan-guy also always says the minivan will leave in 15 minutes. This is never true, or just tico time true. Often I had to wait for an hour, growing more frustrating by the minute.
So if you’re in a hurry or aren’t in the mood for waiting, take a cab. Taxi’s to Almirante (from where the boats to Bocas del Toro leave) costs something like $30,- USD. The first price they’ll give you never is the real price. Also, on the way back, from Almirante to Bocas it’ll be much cheaper – especially at the end of the day. Think of $20,- USD.
To Changuinola this ride will only be something like $5,- USD.
You can pay everywhere with USD in Panama and at some places close to the border they’ll also accept your leftover Costa Rican Colones.
How long will it take you to get where from the border?
- Bocas del Toro: one hour by minivan / taxi to Almirante, boat ride from half an hour for $8,- USD
- Changuinola (has an airport with national flight to for example Panama City and David): 15-20 minutes by minivan / taxi
- Boquete: you take the minivan to David for $8,- USD from either Changuinola or Almirante (it’s on the same road). I took it from Almirante and arrived something like 4,5 hours later in David. Over there you can easily take another bus (45 minutes) to Boquete for $2,- USD.
From Panama to Costa Rica
The border crossing is even easier the other way around. Entering Costa Rica again, I never had to show a ticket at the Costa Rican immigration desk (although I’d suggest to carry one; just to be prepared). Moreover, you don’t have to pay a fee entering Costa Rica. I only once had to pay an ‘exit tax’ for Panama. This was the biggest bullshit ever by the way, but what do you do when they block your entry; yup… just pay it up.
That’s it.
No need to be nervous; although it requires some steps this still is a fairly easy border crossing in my opinion. The most difficult part might be the wait in the sun on busy days in front of the offices, so bring a hat! Y suerte!
Here’s where the border’s at!
Rebecca
June 22, 2019 at 10:39 am
Hi there! I’ll be crossing the border from Panama to Costa Rica at Sixaola and from there I’ll be taking public transportation to Puerto Viejo. I’m wondering if they’ll accept USD for the bus tickets, or if not, is there a way that I could exchange currency? Or an ATM nearby to withdraw colones? Thanks in advance!
Kristel
June 23, 2019 at 4:19 am
Hi Rebecca,
Thanks for reaching out! In general they accept USD in Costa Rica (throughout the whole country), so I think you’ll be pretty fine. Personally if I’d be in your situation I wouldn’t worry about it. It’s all a bit of a mix in this area when it comes to currency. Good luck and safe travels! Best wishes, Kristel from TTT
Laura
August 24, 2019 at 1:04 pm
Amazing article!!! Thank you so much for all those info and the pictures! Makes it easier, really… thanks again!
Kristel
August 25, 2019 at 3:16 am
Hi Laura, thank you for your comment, much appreciated!! Safe travel from Costa Rica to Panama! Best, Kristel from TTT
Taffy
September 8, 2019 at 1:04 pm
Bless your heart, I have been living in Costa Rica since 1990. This is the BEST most informative article. Now I just need the bus schedules form SJO to Sixaola. Does anyone know IF MEPE is the only or “piblic” bus?
Kristel
September 9, 2019 at 11:39 am
Hola Taffy, gracias por su mensaje! Mepe is the public bus indeed. You can find their schedule for Sixaola – San Jose and reverse online too (mepecr,com). Suerte y buen viaje! Kristel from TTT
Jayjay
November 27, 2019 at 11:35 pm
How long do you need to stay in panama before going back to costa rica? I just need to get my stamp and head back to puerto viejo
Kristel
November 30, 2019 at 3:51 pm
Hi Jayjay, three days is the required amount to stay abroad. Cheers, Kristel from TTT
Loïc
July 7, 2021 at 2:36 pm
And how much time the other way round ? If I need the stamp and head back to almirante ??
Stevie
December 27, 2019 at 6:16 am
We ve spend 5!!! Hours on 27th in the morning for getting the entry to Panama.
Full rain no shelter. Really boring.
Kristel
December 28, 2019 at 3:45 am
Hi Stevie, that’s quite a long time indeed! I’ve never crossed the border around Christmas, but I can imagine it could be busy during these days, as you’ve so unfortunately found out. I hope the Caribbean has been treating you well apart from this boring intermezzo! Disfrute su viaje. Best, Kristel from TTT
Vania
February 4, 2020 at 5:29 pm
Hey, Just wondering if it’s safe to grab any taxi to get to Almirante? No need to look for “official taxi’s” or anything? or any shuttle for that matter? Are there any safety concerns? Thanks!
Kristel
February 5, 2020 at 12:34 am
Hi Vania, yes I can imagine this can be of concern, especially when travelling alone. I never had bad experiences myself. Most of the times I joined the rides in one of the minivans (you’ll see them next to the border on the elevated part). Like this you travel with a group, but you have to wait a bit until they’re full (that can sometimes take a while – mañana mañana). There are taxis too, but if they are official? Not sure. Trusting your gut feeling in general is the best advice I can give you. I’ve never heard weird stories over here, but that doesn’t mean you shouldn’t be careful. Good luck! Kristel from TTT
Vania
February 5, 2020 at 9:43 am
Great. Thanks so much!
Kristel
February 14, 2020 at 11:06 am
Thanks for saying this Vania! Hope you had a smooth crossing. Best, Kristel from TTT
Joanna
February 11, 2020 at 3:42 pm
Great tips in this article! Very informative. May I ask where to find the bus to the border? Is there a bus website? THanks.
Kristel
February 14, 2020 at 11:13 am
Hi Joanna, thanks for your comment. From Puerto Viejo to Sixaola (the border) you mean? Best to check out the schedule at mepecr.com. The bus leaves in the middle of the small town, across the Gelateria Deelite. Safe travels! Best, Kristel from TTT
Tony
February 19, 2020 at 8:29 pm
Great article, saved me a lot of time ! I will taking a rental car to the border in a couple days.How do you feel about the “secured” parking in Sixaola?
Kristel
February 20, 2020 at 11:36 am
Hi Tony, thanks – glad to have been of help! We parked our car something like 5 times at that Parqueo Maryela (see pictures) and we never experienced any problems ourselves (of course we didn’t leave valuable stuff behind either). Price is 10 dollars per day. Safe crossing! Best, Kristel from TTT
Stephanie Waring
March 8, 2020 at 2:13 pm
Hi! Thanks so much for this post it’s so useful. I’m wondering if you think there is a difference in safety between the different borders when crossing from Panama to Costa Rica? We will be Crossing from the border closest to bocas del torro – is safety an issue from your experience?
Kristel
March 9, 2020 at 12:57 pm
Hi Stephanie, thanks for the comment! Regarding the crossing; no I think both ways are equally safe. In general, with a bit of common sense nothing most likely can really go wrong over here. I never felt unsafe and during any of my crossings (that included my solo trip). Don’t worry too much! Safe travels, best Kristel from TTT
Jeya A Lorenz
November 4, 2020 at 11:55 am
HI Do you know if the border is open currently and is it possible to do the border entry from CR to Panama and return in the same day?
Loïc
July 7, 2021 at 2:40 pm
The same question but the other way round ?