WHAT: A half a day on a bike in Buenos Aires with Luana of Bikes and Bites BA WHERE: Cruising around the many neighbourhoods of Palermo and along the Costanera Norte and Sur HOW MUCH: $ 27,- USD each. This includes the bike, a lunch, snacks and drinks (mate!) HOW LONG: The tour takes about 4 - 5 hours. Luana starts at 10 or 11 am, depending on the day.
The other day I was just thinking about how much time it would take before you can really say you have lived in a city or in a country. Does it take a couple of months? A year? Or two perhaps?
As I was talking in Buenos Aires to my airbnb host Luana in general about life I came to realize that without a lifetime in a city you probably can never really understand it. She had lived all her life in the city – a real porteña, as the people call themselves in here – and had experienced the growth of Buenos Aires. Its ups and downs. The transformation of the neighbourhoods. The effect of the ever-swinging economy on the people. The influx of tourists. The gentrification.
As a visitor you can only get a little glimpse of the city. A little bite out of it. But Luana, who happens to also be a tour guide on a bicycle, makes sure that this tiny taste will be a great one!
Half a year ago she started her Bike and Bites Buenos Aires as a way of showing visitors her favourite (off the grid) places around town. I went together with my boyfriend along one of her tours. Although it was his second day and my second week in the city, we both had a great time. I guess this mainly was because we cheerful Luana showed us some spots we probably wouldn’t have reached ourselves. It’s always great to be guided around with a local, as they make you see things just differently.
The tour started in Palermo Viejo in the garage in which the bicycles were stored. Luana made sure everyone got a bicycle that fitted their size and suited their needs.
And off we went at 11 am!
We started the day cruising through Palermo Soho, next we cycled along the Rosedal de Palermo and drove all the way up via de Lago de Regatas to the impressive Parque de la Memoria. A fine spot to take a break, while Luana told us some stories about the military dictatorship in the 70s, its political consequences and the young people that fell victim to this regime.
As we digested the information at this tranquil place along the waterside, Luana pumps up the level of energy of her guests with some churros and mate. There was a fierce wind at the time of our visit and was quite cold too that early June day. Thus the warm yerba mate was a pretty welcoming drink too all of us.
For some in the group it was their first acquaintance with the herbal tea, which made the yerba mate circle we created extra special. Luana showed us the etiquette or ‘commandments’ of the social tradition as she refilled the cups and passed it around.
All warmed up, we cycled along the Costanera from the north to the south. Time for lunch, which served the ultimate Argentine street food today: a delicious choripan (a sandwich with chorizo and chimichurri)! Rumour has it that the stands where we were having lunch, located near the Airport Jorge Newbery, are the best ones in town. And I’m very willing to believe it.
The last bit of the ride we cruised through the grand avenues of Palermo Chico and Palermo Alto all the way to where we started in Palermo Viejo. Around the corner of the garage a lovely cerveza artesanal was waiting for us at the hipster bar of Nola. A proper way to end a day full of activity and exploration.
So what did I think of the day?
All in all, joining Bike and Bites BA with Luana is a terrific way to get an overview of the city for anyone with a moderate level of fitness. Don’t expect to tick off the main highlights of BA, but prepare for a bit of alternative route with lots of lovely fooood. And mate.
What I mainly adored about this tour was its variety; from urban hubbub in Palermo Soho, to a bit of Argentine history at the Parque de la Memoria, waterside serenity and street food at the Costanera and sophisticated parks and avenues at Palermo Chico.
The pace is fierce and the traffic loud, so if you aren’t used to cycling, just know that this isn’t the moment to master it. For the lovers of cycling; do as the locals do: jump in the saddle for a day and join Luana’s tour. Whether you’re new in town or not; there’s some in it for everyone!
