PHOTOS: Big Sur – the rough charm of route 1

Of all the highways that we drove – in all of the six Western American states we visited last month -, I considered the State Route 1 by far the prettiest. It’s like a rough diamond if you compare it to other routes. Why? Well it features unspoiled coastlines, azure blue waters, tiny beaches, waterfalls next to the road, whales swimming along with you, gorgeous dream houses on steep cliffs, cool and edgy hangouts and basic campgrounds with ocean views. Every bend requires another stop and therefore driving the HWY 1 can take an entire day, even though it’s only some 85 miles from San Simeon to Carmel.

For me driving around here was an even better representation of freedom than cruising the route 66. Though the highway is popular, we encountered few people on the way. That’s mainly because a couple of months ago a monster of a landslide has buried a quarter-mile section of the highway on the northern part. This piece is currently still covered in a 35-40 feet deep layer of dirt – and therefore impossible to pass. (To be continued after the pictures)

Since there are constructions on the southern part too, hurray, it’s not very easy to get to the main highlights of Big Sur at the moment. You need to take an enormous detour, driving via the 101 to Locker and eventually proceed on the Nacimiento-Fergusson Rd. The only advantage of this trip is that you have a spectacular view on the road from above, once you reach the sea. And probably the place to yourself. 

Wondering where to take a driving break? Here are some lovely stops lined up from south to north: 

Kirk Creek Campground – Unfortunately we couldn’t camp up here since it was sold out, but we couldn’t resist taking a sneak peak. What a marvellous place for a campground this is! We stayed ourselves at the nearby Plaskett Campground, but in contrast to this one Kirk Creek is not placed in the woods, but right next to the ocean. Unfortunately it doesn’t have ANY water(!), so bring lots on your own with you. But don’t worry, that jumping whales in the morning will make it all worthwhile, promised. 

Julia Pfeiffer Burns State Park – If you like to leave your car for a little while, a hike in this park might be a perfect opportunity. The 5 miles in total can be strenuous and challenging, since you have to climb up the canyon for the first half of the hike. At the least the pine trees will provide you with some fresh air while you’re looking for it! Stay focused – the best views are at the near end.

McWay Falls – Without a doubt this is the most iconic beach in Big Sur – and indeed it would be foolish not to stop here. Perhaps it’s a little crowded to park next to the falls in the weekend, but it’s worth the effort. An easy trail leads to a lookout where you have a stunning view on a waterfall that lands straight on the beach. Bring a sandwich, sit down on the wooden bridge et voilà; you have found yourself a perfect picknickspot.

Henry Miller Memorial Library – This museum/library/bookstore features the history and the writings of Henry Miller, a former local resident and acclaimed author. Most of all it’s a quaint little place in the woods, great for a stopover to both stretch the legs and soul. 

Big Sur Tap House – Getting hungry? Big Sur Tap House is a great spot to refuel. The joint stars awesome sandwiches, cookies and some strong coffee. If you’re more in the mood for taco’s – for backpacker prices – see if the next doors taco shack is open too. Currently this place is also the point where you can drive no further due to the landslide. 

Andrew Molera State Park – If you want to take another nice challenging hike – of 8 miles in total – this is a great one. The park has a lovely waterfront spot with an ocean on one side and a small river on the other that lures ocean critters such as baby seals, otters and an array of birds. How cool is that!