With super clear waters, underground marine gardens, cave-like structures like stalactites and gorgeous rays that shine like flashlights, the ‘cenotes’ of Yucatán are without doubt dreamy to experience. Cenotes are freshwater sinkholes which subterranean waterways are connected to one another. Think of it as an underwater cave system with bright openings.
Yucatán has some 6000 of them. Not all of the cenotes are neat for diving though, but in the area around Tulum you can find quite some (18 in total) that are well-prepped for either underwater rookies or advances divers.
Diving in a cenote really is a one-of-a-kind experience and although the dives themselves aren’t cheap (most diving schools charge at least $75,- USD per tank), it is absolutely worth the feel. What’s so great about these cenotes is that they’re superb for a bit of experimenting with cavern diving. You won’t go very deep and most of the waterways are quite broad. That said, keep in mind that cenote diving doesn’t suit all. If you’re afraid of dark space or tend to get claustrophobic, this is not you’re moment to shine. For the rest: if you’re on the peninsula, bloody go for it!
What organisation to join?
Now it may be hard to choose a dive shop in Tulum as there are quite a few in town. We did a bit of research, visited several dive shops in town and ended up having the best feeling with Ko’ox Diving.
Ko’ox Diving charges $80,- USD per dive and although you can find cheaper in Tulum I would say it’s worth the plunge. I once had an horrific dive – in terms of guidance – and realized at that moment that once you’re underwater you just shouldn’t skimp on quality. Diving is expensive anyway, and those few extra bucks really can make or break the experience.
Another note; if you know you want to go, arrange your dive first thing upon arrival in Tulum. Or even better, contact the shop you want to with directly before even getting there. It can get quite crowded from time to time.
Once the dive shop has been chosen question remains what cenote to go to. Since there are 18 that can be a bit of a tough selection. This is a matter of taste. Every dive master we asked seemed to have another favourite.
Personally we went for a 3-dive-in-1 day (as much as possible) and these are the spots we explored!
Cenote El Pit – 22 km / 13.7 miles from Tulum
We gathered at Ko’ox Diving and after a short briefing we headed out to our first spot of the day: Parque Dos Ojos. Some half an hour north of Tulum, both our first and second cenote of this trip were located close to one another, which was convenient for us as it was easy to hop from one to the other. After all; the later in the day, the busier the cenotes will get in Tulum.
The first cenote – El Pit – is only accessible for advanced divers. Snorkeling isn’t even allowed in here. With its 119 m / 391 ft El Pit is the deepest cenote in the area of Quintana Roo. As it’s located in a lush piece of jungle, this place is absolutely scenic, both on the in- and outside. While we were getting instructions about the dive three toucans were flying over, that may say it all.
Not only the cenote itself is deep, but its walls are pretty high too. But don’t despair, although people had to jump in in the beginning (and lowered their gear into the pit with ropes), nowadays fortunately you can enter the water via the (very slippery) stairs.
The ‘ceilings’ of the cenote are decorated with formations, but this dive is especially gorgeous because of the many sun rays that enter through the many ‘clouds’ – which consist of hydrogen sulfate. It’s a magical experience.
Cenote Dos Ojos – 19 km / 11,8 miles from Tulum
Mirror mirror on the wall, what’s the most famous cenote of them all.. Cenote Dos Ojos! And for a reason, because it is famed as one of the world’s best (or thé best) cavern dives.
This is how one of the part of the cenote looks like. The freshwater part is on the right side. Looks very jungle-like right! ↓
Dos Ojos literally means ‘two eyes’ and it refers to the shape of this cave; two neighbouring cenotes that are connected via a large cavern zone in between the two of them. The cenotes themselves are located in a cave as well and due look like big eyes in a way.
Both ‘eyes’ are very different and before the start the instructor will ask whether you’d like to dive the “Barbie Line” (which leads along the opening to the second eye and where you’ll encounter many underwater columns stalactites) or the “Bat Cave” (which feels like a cave and leads to an area with air where you’ll encounter bats flying around).
Our group explored the Barbie Line which was quite an eerie dive. Although special, this area was pretty busy (the later you arrive in the morning the busier it gets), with both divers and snorkellers, which diminishes the experience in a way unfortunately…
Since Dos Ojos is the most popular dive, you’ll most likely ending up going there if you’re joining a diving trip last moment. Don’t get me wrong, it’s a superb place, but it can just get very crowded. ↓ Ask your instructor to start here… perhaps that’ll beat the crowds a bit.
Cenote Carwash – 9 km / 5,6 miles from Tulum
Time for our third dive at Cenote Carwash! Funny name right? I’m still not sure why this cenote is called like that (let me know if you do!), but anyway, this was the most beautiful cenote I’ve seen in Mexico.
Gosh, it’s like diving through an underwater garden in here.
We also spotted a turtle and a caiman in here. The thought of encountering a croc while peacefully floating in the water may not sound very appealing, but Mr. Caiman is harmless if you don’t come to close. That said, don’t try to touch it either if you want to keep your fingers.
Although close to Tulum, cenote Carwash is a rather peaceful area. Unlike the previous two above water this cenote is also quite ‘open’.
Underwater however you can still experience a big cavern, which is great for rookies. Honestly, if you’re not into cave diving then you can have the same superb time in here just by snorkeling. ↓
Cenote Manatí – 12,5 km / 7,6 miles from Tulum
A bonus cenote! We didn’t go to Manatí ↓ for diving, but the dive instructor of Ko’ox recommended us to go snorkelling in here. Both snorkelling and diving are supposed to be super nice at Manatí.
Manatí is special, as this cenote is surrounded by mangrove and connected to the sea. It is therefore not entirely a freshwater sinkholes. The great benefit of this is that you’ll encounter some salty marine life in here too.
Caimans are likely to be spotted as well. At the time of our visit a rather large one was just checking out all of the floating visitors. Funny enough he was chilling right under the “Watch out for caiman” sign.
Apart from underwater life, also watch the coatis and raccoons right outside the cenote by the way… they are super cheeky!
Here’s where to find those gorgeous underwater spots and Ko’ox Diving in Tulum!
